The Tour of Flanders,
Ronde van Vlaanderen in Flemish, is one of the so-called monuments of the European professional calendar (
Milan-San Remo,
Paris-Roubaix,
Liège-Bastogne-Liège,
Giro di Lombardia are the others). It is famous for its cobbled climbs, such as
Molenberg,
Oude Kwaremont,
Paterberg,
Koppenberg and
Muur-Kapelmuur, and for the past month I have been thinking of nothing else for I had entered the associated Ronde van Vlaanderen voor Wielertoeristen - the tour for cycle tourists.
I had never ridden on cobbles, let alone steep cobbled hills. Initially this didn't phase me, but the more I researched the more nervous I got. I knew the climbs were difficult, but finding out virtually the entire peleton walked up Koppenberg in 2006 did plant seeds of doubt. So on Saturday when I lined up at the start I really had no idea of what the 140km and 16 "helling" would be like.
This is a big, big event, and in 2009 it was even bigger. According to
cyclingnews.com some 19,000 people (700 from Britain) entered one of the six different options for road and mountain biking this year, a record number.
Starting in Ninove, the route took us north-west towards Zottegem on flat roads. Here the group I found myself in rode at a steady 30km/hr pace, I tucked in behind a rider on a BMC Team Machine. This changed when a semi-pro team came through complete with support car. Ego got the better of me, and I chased and hung on until we hit the first section of cobbles - 1200m, a short right and left on asphalt, another 2400m of cobbles. It was carnage. The road was littered with bottles, pumps, sunnies - anything that wasn't fixed sufficiently. I had expected vibrations, but nothing like this. I could feel my calf muscles moving freely sideways. My arms shook violently. I was immediately sore, and we hadn't even reached the first helling - Molenberg. The semi-pro team I had been following disappeared down the road, they hadn't accelerated, I had simpled slowed suddenly.
At the start of 2008, I had the good fortune to hear
Stuart O'Grady speak about his success at Paris-Roubaix. He talked about "floating" over the cobbles and that speed actually helped rather than hindered. His words came back to me immediately, but I could do nothing in response as I clung to the top of my bars. I was sinking.
The eventual return of asphalt was greeted by all with relief. Now I was very scared. If the flats felt like that, what would the hills be like? Soon a banner over the road announced Molenberg - 463m at 7% maxing at 14.3%. I quickly got myself into the small ring and concentrated on keeping a high cadence. The road ahead was packed, and it was case of dodging others rather than maintaining a rhythm on the narrow stretch. At the top a smile came to my face - that was why I was here ... that was awesome.
Another 3000m stretch of flat cobbles (they hurt), then Wolvenberg. A bigger and steeper climb than Molenberg, but not cobbled, it seemed easy in comparison. Outside Oundaarde was the first drinks station. It was nothing like anything I had experienced on previous sportives - it was a warehouse, a cross-dock one. In one door, out another. In between I collected the most fabulous collection of energy foods - liege waffles, and gingerbread.
Back on the road, everyone was preparing for what lay ahead. Though we were a third of the distance in, 14 of the 16 helling remained. The next three were legendary. First Oude Kwaremont on a street named after the race, Ronde van Vlaanderenstraat. I got to the top without any issues (or real effort). Then it was Paterberg - 360m at 12.9% (20.3% max). The really steep section is two-thirds of the way up, and it was here I had to uncleat after the rider in front of me stopped and I had nowhere to go. I walked the remaining 100 or so metres. I was disappointed as I really felt I would have made it to the top. Within 3km came Koppenberg. The banner outlined the stats - 600m at 11.6% (22% max). Ahead the lane was filled with riders. As we started the climb I tried to maintain distance from the rider ahead, but soon found myself in a similar situation to that on Paterberg. This time the rider ahead fell sideways, taking down 3-4 others. With nowhere to go, again I needed to uncleat. I now understood why the pros race to be on the front when they hit these hills.
In quick succession came hellings 6-14 and 5500m of flat cobbled sections. After which was the Muur. I had been dreaming about this climb ever since I had entered, and it was here Amanda had come to watch. Amanda has never seen me ride, and I really wanted to put on a good show. On helling #14 Eikenmolen I could feel cramp coming on. In desperation I drank everything I had, but I wasn't sure I had enough time for the extra fluids to take effect. Then a moment of marketing brilliance, 7km from the Muur was a Red Bull drinks station - to give you wings for the Muur. I drank my can and rode slowly, saving my legs for what lay ahead. Officially Muur-Kapelmuur is 475m at 9.3% (19.8% max), but this doesn't take into account the 400m of (uphill) cobbles that precedes it. I rode it just as I had hoped, here I did float, and as I reached the top I heard "Aliiii" ... there was Amanda. (Red Bull does give you wings.) I was overcome with emotion and have to admit, I did shed a tear. After a quick hug and kiss, I hit the road knowing only Bosberg was left and from there it was all downhill.
In the end I finished with a time of 6hr20min. I hadn't set myself time goals, I simply wanted to experience the cobbles. The course had taken its toll ... each of my hands were blistered - on each of my palms and thumbs.
Sunday it was the pros turn. We headed to Oudenaarde. Here watched both the womens and mens peleton pass, before walking to nearby Koppenberg. It was an amazing experience - a must for all cycling fans. I will watch this weekends Paris-Roubaix in awe.
